Guide to Marrakech
“To visit Morocco is still like turning the pages of some illuminated Persian manuscript all embroidered with bright shapes and subtle lines” - Edith Wharton
City: Marrakech
Country: Morocco
Population: 36,471,769
Language: Berber and Arabic (French is a secondary language)
Currency: Moroccan Dirham
The North African kingdom of Morocco is unlike any other place on earth, carrying a unique charm that allures the visitor and creates enduring lifelong memories. An eclectic nation, merging and mingling the influences of its African, Middle Eastern, and European counterparts; its deeply rooted history (dating back as far as the native Berber people of the 6th Century BCE) makes it a remarkable experience no matter what your interest may be.
Nicknamed the “jewel of the south”, Marrakech itself stands out amongst the wide array of sights in Morocco. A city bursting at the seams with creativity and history, home throughout time to countless writers, artists, and creatives; the streets and bazaars spill over with artistry in the form of cuisine, crafts, architecture, and fine art. Existing both at once in a place steeped in historical wonder, and contemporary modernity; the city seems to operate at its own place in time seamlessly combining centuries-old mosques or markets, with avant-garde concept stores and art galleries. A long creative hub and refuge for wanderers, Marrakech finds a marriage between conventional Moroccan culture and hospitality, modern luxury, with an element of bohemian edge to tie it all together. Inside the cobblestoned streets of this centuries-old trading hub lays a cultural experience unlike any other, where creative ideas thrive and a buzz of entrepreneurialism charges the air with an intoxicating essence. Though Marrakech can be a daunting assault on the senses, from the snake charmers of the square to the merchants of the Souks and scents of the markets, if you are able to find moments of peace in Marrakech, you may find yourself transported to the realm that countless travelers and creatives have found before you; a place where the true beauty of Marrakech can be observed.
The city itself, as far as tourists are typically concerned, can be divided into two primary areas. The “old” Marrakech, which is the walled section of the Medina, and the “Ville Nouvelle”; also known as Gueliz. Below you will find a selection of my top tips for accommodation, food, and activities to choose from during your stay in the jewel of the south.
Where to Eat
There is no shortage of unforgettable dining experiences in Marrakech, so this list will only scratch the surface of this varied culinary hub. From upscale experiences to fresh market food and local cuisines, Marrakech ensures that all visitors will never be without a good meal. The recommendations below are those that I personally experienced.
Nomad
This contemporary take on modern Moroccan cuisine, founded by Kamal Laftimi and Sebastian de Gzell, can be found off the famed Rahba Lakdima spice square. With intimate dining rooms and two levels of terraces, it makes for a wonderful end to a day of exploring the markets. The menu is local with a Western twist on many traditional Moroccan dishes, such as the classic Tagine.
Recommended Dishes: Roasted Cauliflower & Nomad Couscous
Personal Tip: Book in advance to secure a terrace spot, allowing for panoramic views of the Medina and the Atlas Mountains
Good For: Lunch or dinner
Website: Nomad Marrakech
Le Jardin
Another brilliant creation of Kamal Laftimi, Le Jardin is an oasis amongst the medina. Set inside a tranquil lush garden that surrounds visitors as they dine on the contemporary Moroccan dishes, its boho-chic courtyard is a welcome respite from the bustle of the souks.
Recommended Dishes: Patatas Bravas w harissa aioli & kefta tagine
Personal Tip: Service errs on the slower side so enjoy your time here, and order a juice while you wait for your entree
Good For: Lunch / mid-day pick me up
Website: Le Jardin Marrakech
Mes’Lalla/Ling Ling at Mandarin Oriental
Mandarin Oriental boasts an impressive number of world-class restaurants directly on-site in Marrakech, and the offerings at Mes’Lalla are worth the visit. Bringing together an array of traditional Moroccan dishes, Mes’Lalla blends Michelin star French technique and sophisticated North African flavors to provide a unique gastronomic experience.
Recommended Dishes: Marocain selection from Dégustation menu
Personal Tip: Book a table on the outside patio, where you can enjoy your meal with views of the expansive MO property and the far-reaching Atlas Mountains. Afterward, go for cocktails at the legendary Ling Ling right next door.
Good For: Intimate and upscale dinner experience
Website: Mes’Lalla
Terrasse Des épices
Located in the heart of the Medina, Terrace Des Epices is known for its atmosphere and warm and welcoming dishes.
Recommended Dishes: Moroccan salad assortment
Personal Tip: Tagine is a specialty here, and is combined well with their expansive Moroccan wine list
Good For: Lunch and dinner
Website: Terrasse Des Epices
“Other Recommendations: Throughout the Medina, you will find various vendors offering local dishes. Look for one with a lunch line of locals, and you can safely visit knowing that it will be a delicious and authentic experience. ”
Cafes:
Cafe Atay
This small cafe is tucked away in the narrow streets of the Medina, near Koutoubia mosque, but boasts hard to beat rooftop terrace views.
Personal Tip: Go up to the 2nd or 3rd level of the terrace to land a striking view of the Koutoubia mosque, a historical landmark of the city.
Good For: A break from the Medina for orange juice, coffee, and snacks
Cafe Le Studio
Set inside the legendary studio KO designed Museum Yves Saint Laurent, modernist architecture wonderfully marries the traditional Moroccan stonework. The interiors are inspired by Mr. Saint Laurent’s Paris studio, with a Moroccan French fusion menu to boast.
Good For: a break during an afternoon exploring the museum and gardens
Max and Jan Cafe
Tucked away in the medina, Max and Jan is an experience unto itself. A concept store among the likes of Merci (Paris) and Corso Como (Milan), this is a must-see for creative visitors to Marrakech. Housing everything from ethnic chic Moroccan fashion, to a well-curated selection of interior design pieces; the cafe is unsurprisingly equally impressive.
Personal Tip: Look for unique gifts here if you do not feel like haggling in the Medina
Good For: coffee break and snacks
Where to Stay
Marrakech boasts an impressive array of accommodation options, from modern luxury to traditional options known as riads. Both offer their various advantages depending on what you are seeking. Below is the places that I personally stayed at, followed by a list of places that have an equally keen eye for service and design.
Riad Demeures D’Orient
Riad Demeures D’Orient is a luxurious 5-star riad in the Kasbah district of the Medina. The impeccable attention to detail and service encompasses the entirety of the property, from the rooftop terrace to the individually unique suite offerings. Boasting one of the most beautiful pools in Marrakech, it is the perfect place to rest while taking in the sights and sounds of old Marrakech.
Personal Tip: Enjoy an evening sipping cocktails by the heated pool after a day of exploring to recharge for the next morning’s activities
Website: Demeures D’Orient
Ksar Kasbah
A contemporary boutique take on the traditional Moroccan riad accommodation, this is an excellent option if you wish to stay within the confines of the Medina. The pool and boho decor add to the character of the colorful rooms and panoramic rooftop views. The kasbah offers a traditional spa, and organic bath product by local artisans, as well as an excellent breakfast which you can enjoy on the roof overlooking the city. The smell of fragrant orange blossom fills the riad, and the welcoming staff makes this a particularly special stay.
Personal Tip: Head up to the rooftop for sunrise and witness the city come to life before enjoying breakfast.
Website: Ksar Kasbah & Spa
Mandarin Oriental
I may have saved the best for last on this list, as staying at Mandarin Oriental Marrakech not only stands out as one of the highlights of my Morocco experience but also as one of the most incredible hotels I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing in my life.
Mandarin Oriental Marrakech is a resort-style property, tucked away from the noise of the Medina on 20 hectares of olive groves and fragrant gardens. This is where Moroccan heritage meets the charm of the Mandarin Oriental luxury hotels. Offering world-class dining, and countless activities to rejuvenate and relax, this location is truly an international gem in the hospitality industry and a gold standard in terms of luxury and service. The architecture and interior design marry both conventional Mandarin Oriental design elements with ethnic Berber/Moroccan highlights to showcase the spirit of the location. Some hotels “get it”, and Mandarin Oriental Marrakech is absolutely one of them.
If the utmost luxury and an unforgettable experience are what you are seeking, Mandarin Oriental offers the ultimate Moroccan escape to immerse yourself in the city of Marrakech.
Personal Tip: Book the pool villa for a private luxury experience unlike any other. With the master bedroom only steps from a heated jacuzzi that connects to the pool, you could spend days basking in your own personal paradise.
Website: Mandarin Oriental
Other Options:
La Mamounia
Royal Mansour
Amanjena
Kasbah Bab Ourika
El Fenn
Riad Jardin Secret
BE Marrakech
L’Hotel Marrakech
What to Do
Spa Treatment
This is an absolute MUST do experience for any visitor to Marrakech. It is no secret that Morocco maintains a rich heritage of skincare, spa treatments, and wellness offerings. A unique cultural element to Morocco is that these wellness practices are not constrained to the upper class, but rather considered to be an essential and integral part of all individual’s lives. As such, there exists a wide array of options when it comes to selecting your spa treatment(s). Below is my experience at one of the most prominent luxury options, which was truly a once in a lifetime experience.
The Spa at Royal Mansour
While this is unequivocally a splurge, I believe it was absolutely worth every penny. From the moment you enter the Royal Mansour property, you are astounded by the expansive gardens and luxurious details that encompass every square inch. Royal Mansour is famously owned by Morocco’s King Mohammed VI, who commissioned over 1,000 artisans to design the most marvelous hotel, with no budget to limit their creative possibilities.
However, arrival is nothing like the first time you enter the spa grounds; with an all-white, ethereal lounge area that you will be greeted in. A true haven of tranquility and serenity, you are immediately at peace prior to your treatment. The spa is meant to offer a journey like a treatment approach, stretching over three floors to allow the visitor to lose themselves in luxury and relaxation. After enjoying your treatments, you have the option of taking a swim in the spa pool or simply enjoying the tranquility of the private upper lounge beds with terraces overlooking the property gardens.
Personal Tip: Opt for a traditional Hammam experience with the MarocMaroc offerings, which contain all-natural local ingredients such as rose and argan oil. A signature treatment of the Royal Mansour is the quintessence of well being and will transport you into a complete state of equilibrium. You will never feel more at ease or cleansed than you will after this treatment.
Website: Royal Mansour Spa
Beyond Royal Mansour, the other two popular luxury options exist at Mandarin Oriental and La Mamounia (which boasts one of the most picturesque pools ever). However, many accommodation options in Marrakech offer their own spa treatments, and there are many affordable options to bask in Moroccan wellness practices, such as opting for the local Hammam which will only cost you 10-dirham.
Wandering the Medina
To have a true, authentic Marrakech experience, you have no option other than to head into the Medina and spend much of your time there.
The Medina is the old area of the Marrakech, consisting of a labyrinth of narrow cobblestoned streets, embedded with countless shops, food stands, and cultural attractions. Though at times overwhelming, the Medina tells the story of a thousand years of urban development in Morocco and yields much to be discovered. Throughout you will find fragrant scents, often while hearing Moroccan instruments and afternoon prayer, only before stumbling upon one of many extravagant courtyards or gardens. Every corner of the Medina has a story to tell, as vibrant as the individuals that inhabit it every day. Take your time and hone your skills of observation here, as there is much to be seen and experienced.
Without a doubt, you will get lost multiple times in the Medina.
This is completely expected, and while you may be approached by individuals offering the wrong directions; stay confident and you will eventually find your way again. This is all part and parcel of the Medina experience. Once you have your bearings, you can practice your haggling skills in the souks, which are traditional Arab markets. Shopping in the souks is a timeless experience, dating back thousands of years, and an absolutely essential experience while in Marrakech. Don’t make the mistake of agreeing to the initial price offered, start by offering less than 1/2 and work to a reasonable compromise. This is standard practice and even if you walk away, the salesman will often ask you to return to agree to your initial offer.
While in the medina, make sure you find your way to the following landmarks:
Koutoubia Mosque
Bahia Palace
Ben Youseff
When the day is done and you have had your heart’s content of Medina wanderings, visit one of the numerous rooftop terraces overlooking the main square of Jemaa el-Fna for sunset and witness the magical sight of the North African sun setting over the market as the city continues to awaken into the night.
Personal Tip: Download an offline version of google maps, or obtain a physical map from your hotel/riad prior to venturing out if you want to feel extra secure. This will help you to navigate the Medina when you inevitably get lost.
YSL Museum/Majorelle Gardens
The prolific designer Yves Saint Laurent, and his partner Pierre Berge called Marrakech a home away from home; a creative retreat where Mr. Saint Laurent would often sketch hundreds of designs before taking them back to his Paris studio to edit in his atelier. Morocco is thought to be the place that fired his creative imagination and inspired his use of color.
As such, it seems quite fitting that the YSL museum was established in 2017 to showcase the works of Mr. Saint Laurent. The design emulates many of the elements Yves utilized in his own work, and the visit should also include a stroll around the Majorelle Gardens that were restored at the time of museum opening.
Excursions out of Marrakech
From Marrakech, there is much that can be explored whether that be in the form of day trips or longer excursions out of the city. Popular day-trips include Agafay stone desert, Atlas mountain hikes, and Ouzoud falls. During my stay, I took a brief road trip out to the Merzouga dunes of the Sahara desert; another experience that I highly recommend fitting into your itinerary.
From Marrakech we journeyed East towards the Sahara, stopping at several historical sites along the way. Upon reaching the border of the desert, we rode camels through the Merzouga dunes into the sunset to reach out desert camp for the night. To sleep under the stars, feeling the silence of the desert, and to wake up among the dunes and watch the sun illuminate the landscape around us was a truly magical experience.
Returning to Marrakech after this excursion really helped to drive home for me just how vast and varied the kingdom of Morocco truly is, culturally and geographically.
What to Photograph
In many regards, Morocco is quite clearly a photographer’s paradise. From the golden dunes of the Sahara to the bustling city of Marrakech and all of its inhabitants; it offers the photographer many opportunities to capture that decisive moment.
However, I must note that the attitude surrounding photography in Morocco is particularly difficult to navigate compared to other places I’ve traveled. When walking with your camera, please take caution to be respectful of people’s personal space and ask permission when possible prior to taking a photo.
Once this is established, here are a few key elements you can focus on for your Marrakech photography.
1. The Exhilarating Hustle of the Medina
The Medina, as previously noted, is an excellent place for watching life go by. As such, during day or night, you may find yourself inspired to capture the frantic beauty of this area.
2. Life in the Souks
The markets offer plenty of photographic opportunities, with shopkeepers proudly displaying their various works; from colorful rugs to ornate jewelry and lanterns.
3. Architecture at the various Riads/Hotels
The traditional riads typically have a pool in the center of the accommodation, which provides for a plethora of classic Marrakech images. Riad translates to garden, but the king thought it would be fitting for tourists to replace many of the courtyard gardens with pools to cool down, and that was a brilliant marketing decision. Tourists flock to the various riads and hotels for a chance to highlight the unique architecture and tranquil pools.
4. Sunset over Jemaa el-Fna
This one is an absolutely iconic capture for any photographer visiting Marrakech. It epitomizes “Marrakech” by showcasing both the main square and the Koutoubia mosque.
Practical advice
Here, I’ll outline some of the more pragmatic tips I have for traveling to Marrakech.
ALWAYS get travel medical insurance. Healthcare in Morocco is generally limited, but you don’t want to be stuck without insurance should something unforeseen happen. I recommend World Nomads and never travel without it.
Building on this, be aware of the time of year you are going. Marrakech enjoys a warm climate year-round, but it gets particularly hot from May-August. I traveled there in June, and while it was quite warm; I found it bearable through a few tricks. Making full use of the pools is helpful as this will cool your core temperature down, especially pragmatic before bed. I also traveled with hydration tablets (dissolvable tablets that can be purchased at any outdoor/sports shop), which helped to maximize the hydration during the hot afternoons.
Lastly, dressing appropriately will also help in this regard. While Morocco tends to err on the side of conservatism, they also tend to understand that tourists cannot cope with the heat as well as locals who have had years to adapt may be able to. Ideally, you want to remain fairly neutral in your dress, adopting light earthy tones that will not attract too much heat or attention from bystanders. Be respectful of where you are and make an effort to adapt.
Whether you are taking a break from the heat or relaxing at night, you will likely want something to help you delve deeper into your Marrakech state of mind. Morocco is a literary haven, with many writers finding inspiration here. From prolific writers of Moroccan descent to a deeply entrenched entanglement with the Beatnik writers of the 60s; the roots of literary excellence runs deep in Morocco. While much of the Beatnik history links to Tangier, there are traces of Burroughs, Ginsberg, and Kerouac in Marrakech as well.
Recommended Reading to Get Inspired:
The Sheltering Sky by Paul Bowles
In Morocco by Edith Wharton
The Caliph’s House by Tahir Shah
Lords of the Atlas by Gavin Maxwell
Naked Lunch by William S. Boroughs (while not set in Morocco, it was written in the port of Tangier)
Marrakech can be a daunting experience for the first time visitor, but I hope that this guide helps you to feel confident in planning your trip. In spite of the challenges it offers, Marrakech undoubtedly stands out as one of my favorite cities that I’ve ever traveled to. If you have any further questions, I’m more than happy to help.
